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It's Okay to Be a Nana!
Saturday, May 19, 2012
FAQ

When battery hens are saved they have few feathers to keep them warm. These wonderful little coats help to keep them warm and encourage the growth of new feathers. Shawn at www.animalsanctuary.co.nz  says she can use them and if she gets too many she can send them onto others who are saving battery hens. Send them to:

The Sanctuary

441 Govan Wilson Rd
Matakana
RD5, Warkworth 

Laughing Hens Pattern
Battery Chicken Jacket

Thanks to www.allotment.org.uk

Basic Chux Tux

Abbreviations: 
k:   knit
p:   purl
k2tog:   knit two stitches together
tbl:   through back of loop
st:   stitch
rt:   right

Use up your odds and ends of wool. It probably takes about one ball in total and about six hours to knit
Using size 3.25mm-4mm needles and double knitting wool.
Cast on 100 stitches.

Work 20 rows k1p1 rib.
Start decreasing, right side of work is facing you.
Keep the continuity of the rib pattern throughout.

Rib4, k2togtbl, rib26, k2togtbl, rib31, k2tog, rib27, k2tog, rib4 (96st)
3 rows rib maintaining pattern.
Rib4, k2togtbl, rib25, k2togtbl, rib29, k2tog, rib26, k2tog, rib4 (92st)
3 rows rib
Rib4, k2togtbl, rib24, k2togtbl, rib27, k2tog, rib25, k2tog, rib4 (88st)
3 rows rib
Rib4, k2togtbl, rib23, k2togtbl, rib25, k2tog, rib24, k2tog, rib4 (84st)
3 rows rib

Continue decreasing but only in the centre of the work
Rib28, k2togtbl, rib23, k2tog, rib29 (82st)
3 rows rib
Rib28, k2togtbl, rib21, k2tog, rib29 (80st)
3 rows rib
Rib28, k2togtbl, rib19, k2tog, rib29 (78st)
1 row rib
Rib28, k2togtbl, rib17, k2tog, rib29 (76st)
1row rib
Rib28, k2togtbl, rib15, k2tog, rib29 (74st)
1 row rib
Continue decreasing like this until:
Rib 28, k2tog tbl, p1, k2tog, rib29 (60st)
1 row rib
Rib28, slip next st onto rt needle k2tog, pass slipped st back over to cast it off, rib29, 
(58st)
Continue without further shaping, k1p1 rib for 15 rows
Cast off loosely, in rib, in slightly smaller needles if possible.


Adjustable neck fastening.
Cast on 11sts
k1p1 moss stitch for 5 rows

6th row (working button hole)
work 6 st in moss st, cast off the last st worked (on the rt needle slip the 5th st worked over the 6th st)
work 1 st from left needle, pass the 5th st over the 6th st as before
work 1 st from left needle, pass the 5th st over the 6th st
moss st 3 remaining st. 
(4st, gap for button hole, 4st)

7th row
moss st 3 st
next st, work into front but do not cast off needle, pass wool to back of work, and make second st into
the back, do not cast off, bring wool to front, and work third st into front, do not cast off, wool to
back, work fourth st into back of original st.

With 7 st on rt needle now release it from the left needle
work remaining 4 st from left needle in moss st (11st)

k1p1 moss st for 5 rows
repeat 6th row
repeat 7th row
k1p1 moss st for 5 rows
repeat 6th row
repeat 7th row
k1 p1 moss st for 2 rows
next row k2tog tbl, moss st 7, k2tog (9st)
next row k2tog tbl, moss st 5, k2tog (7st)
cast off in moss st

To make up
The wide end of the body shape is the tail end, the narrower end is the head end.
On main body of Chux Tux, sew together the first 20 rows of rib (at the wider end of the shape) only, to form a short tube, but leave open the rest of the garment.
Attach the cast on edge of the neck fastening to the side of the tux at the top.
Sew a button on the other side.


Deluxe Chux Tux
Make the basic Chux Tux and add the "Warming Flap".

Warming Flap
Cast on 25 st.
k1 p1 moss stitch, until work measures 14 cm
Next row, keeping continuity of moss st pattern
moss st 4, k2tog tbl, moss st to last 6 st , k2tog, moss st to end (23st)
next row, moss st
continue decreasing in this way (one decrease row, one moss st row) until 11 st remain
next two rows moss st
now work 6th and 7th row of adjustable neck fastening
moss st 5 rows
work 6th and 7th row of adjustable neck fastening
moss st 5 rows
cast off in moss st

To make up
Sew bottom (cast on edge) of Warming Flap to the cast on edge of the Tux placing
it centerally over the short back seam. 

The Warming Flap adjusts and does up using the same
button that secures the neck fastening.

Fitting Instructions

These are fitting instructions from Brigitte who designed the jacket:

One person holds the chicken at ground level,with both hands wrapped around her body restraining her wings. The second person faces the chicken and gathers the Tux up (as if it were a sock or a leg of a pair of tights) and puts the Chux-Tux over the chicken's head and over the first person's hands, so that it is well down her body but in front of her legs.  The first person, with the second person's assistance, then gently manoeuvres one wing at a time, though the opening so that both wings are outside the Tux.  It is very important that whilst you are handling the chicken's wings and she feels your grip loosen to free the wing, that she does not flap and try to escape at this point, as she would easily be injured.

Once the wings are out, the second person adjusts the fastening to a comfortable fit. Carefully release the chicken. and observe her to make sure all is well.  To take the Tux off, simply undo the button and slide the Tux off the back of the chicken, so as not to ruffle her feathers, making sure that her legs are not caught in the garment.  Again, this is best done by two people.

I think that if the 'Chux-Tux' is used as soon as the chicken is rescued, she may get used to it. Queenie did not enjoy her new look and her companions were also alarmed. Although my design has exceeded my expectations I have taken it off Queenie and I keep all the chickens warm with the infra red lamp, she is clever enough to stay in the shed most of the time and only ventures out for short periods.  Mo, one of her companions, had even fewer feathers than Queenie,  when they arrived,  and now you would not recognise her , she looks almost normal, so I am sure that  Queenie will be fine very shortly. 

After I had knitted the Basic Chux Tux  I understood how the design could be adapted to produce the 'Deluxe Chux Tux'  with the added back warming feature .  A few of the rescued battery chickens have very few feathers indeed and are unkindly referred to as 'oven readies', they seem to have left only the larger flight feathers on the wings and a few stubbly tail feathers so as well as having a bare chest and bottom they also have a bare back and they dither and shiver in the cold,  wearing what is left of their wings curled around their poor scrawny bodies.  These chickens need the extra protection of the Deluxe version.  When fitting the Deluxe version, simply button the Warming Flap down after the wings have been eased out, using the same button that holds the neck fastening. At first sight, the Warming Flap may appear too short but when in place, it adapts to the shape of the chicken's back.


 

Middlemore now have plenty of prem baby beanies but would love any knitting in the form of cardigans, booties and beanies for babies aged 3 months and older. Here is a pattern to try sent in by Diane Burgoyne:

Hi Wendyl, I have a very easy pattern from my Mum. Have attached a pic of some of them. Hope this is a help.

Pattern is for  4ply baby  wool.

Cast on 82 (92) sts.

Rib (k1, p1) for 20 rows. (gives a fold up band)

Pattern (whatever you like. E.g Right side : k2, p2 Wrong side: p2, k2)

Repeat pattern for 8-10cm (or more if deeper beanie needed.

Right side: Sl 1, k8, k2tog, till last st k1.

Wrong side: Purl across all sts.

Right side: Sl 1, k7, k2tog, till last st k1.

Wrong side: Purl across all sts.

Right side: Sl 1, k6, k2tog, till last st k1.

Wrong side: Purl across all sts.

Right side: Sl 1, k5, k2tog, till last st k1.

Wrong side: Purl across all sts.

Right side: Sl 1, k4, k2tog, till last st k1.

Wrong side: Purl across all sts.

Right side: Sl 1, k3, k2tog, till last st k1.

Wrong side: Purl across all sts.

Right side: Sl 1, k2, k2tog, till last st k1.

Wrong side: Purl across all sts.

Wrong side: Break yarn with long thread, thread with darning needle back through remaining sts  and sew down side seam.

Fold back ribbing to form band. Decorate if you wish.

 

 Thanks to Maureen Lewis for sending in this pattern 

 

spiral_hat.JPG

SPIRAL BEANIE IN 3PLY, 4 PLY OR 8 PLY

This pattern is worked in a multiple of 6 stitches so you can adapt it to bigger or smaller sizes easily. Use the appropriate set of four double pointed needles and a marker to show the end of each round.

BASIC SMALL SIZE

3PLY   3.00mm set of 4 double-point needles

Cast on 96 stitches, join in a circle.
Work 12 rounds in 2 purl, 2knit rib

Commence spiral rib patt -

Rounds 1 - 3: (k3, p3) repeat to end
Rounds 4 – 6: p1 (k3 p3)to last 5 sts, k3, p2
Rounds 7 – 9: p2 (k3 p3) to last 4sts, k3, p1
Rounds 10 -12: p3 (k3 p3) to last 3 sts, k3
Rounds 13 – 15: k1 p3 (k3 p3) to last 2 sts, k2
Rounds 16 – 18: k2 p3 (k3 p3) to last st, k1
Repeat these 18 rounds once.

Shape top
R1 (k3 p1 p2 tog) to end
R2 (k3 p2) to end
R3 (k3 p2 tog) to end
R4 Knit
R5 (k2  k2 tog) to end
R6 (k1 k2 tog) to end
R7 (k2tog) to end
R8 (k2tog) to end
R9 (k2 tog) to end
Break off yarn and thread through remaining stitches, pull in and sew end firmly.
Darn in yarn at the beginning. 

Bigger 3 Ply size

3.00mm needles as above
Cast on 108 stitches
Work 18 rows of 2/2 rib
Repeat spiral patt as above to 11 cm, then shape top.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 
4 PLY

3.25 mm set of 4 double-point needles

Cast on 108 stitches, join in a circle

Work 16 rounds in 2 purl, 2 knit rib

Work spiral pattern as 3 Ply instructions

Shape top as 3 ply EXCEPT work
Round 4 (k2 p2tog) to end
Continue as 3 ply shaping

8 PLY

4.5 mm set of 4 double-point needles

Cast on 72 sts, join in a circle

Work as instructions for basic 3ply size. 


This bootie pattern was sent into me one of my newsletter readers Vivienne. I haven't tried it yet, but you might like to. It's for prem babies and I'm sure Middlemore Hospital would love to receive these from you.  

GARTER STITCH BOOTIES   3 0R 4 PLY
Length 7cm. 1x25g 3 or 4ply wool. Size 3.25mm for 3ply or 3mm needles for 4ply.
 
Cast on 42sts.  Knit 22 rows in garter stitch (knit only).
Cast off 9sts and the beginning of the next 2 rows.
Knit 16 rows.
Next row: k2tog along the row to end.
Repeat above row.
Thread needle through remaining stitches, pull up and flat stitch seam leaving a turn over at the top. Sew up back seam also with flat stitch. 
 
Middlemore Hospital Address
Please click here to find out more about sending beanies, booties and any other knitted goods suitable for keeping babies and children warm. Please use wool not acrylic. About 30% of the children they treat at the hospital come from unheated homes so your knitting can help keep them healthy and warm.  
Send to  South Auckland Health Foundation, C Floor, Building 2, Middlemore Hospital, Otahuhu, Auckland 1640.

Wellington Hospital
The person to contact about baby knitting at Wellington Hospital is the Volunteer Co- Ordinator Trish Lee on  04 385 5999. She will be pleased to receive any pure wool knitting e.g. Hats, cardigans, rugs, and booties and there is a prem baby knitting book available for patterns.



Knitting Experiments

I've started knitting again, something I haven't done since I was a kid and as I find patterns which my limited abilities can manage I'll share them here for others to try.

 

Washcloth/Dishcloth

wash_cloths.jpg

 

These make wonderful gifts and I encourage you to find a bright coloured all cotton yarn. The yarn I used for these was from Egypt and knitted up beautifully. You can make them larger or smaller just by increasing the number of stitches you cast on. And I love the texture of the double moss stitch.

Use needles advised by the yarn you buy. I used 4mm.

Cast on 39 stitches.

Knit six rows.

+ First row:Knit 4 then knit 1/purl 1 until last 4 stitches which you knit

Second row: Knit 4 then purl1/knit1 until last 4 stitches which you knit

Third row: Knit 4 then purl1/knit1 to last 4 stitches which you knit.

Fourth row: Knit 4 then knit 1/purl1 to last 4 stitches which you knit +

 

From + to + forms the pattern which you repeat until you have nearly made a square. Finish off with another six rows of knit and cast off.  


Newborn Beanie Pattern

 

newborn_beanie.jpg

Use 5mm needles and double knit or 8 ply wool . Cast on 48 stitches.

Work in knit 1, purl 1 (rib) for 6 rows.

Knit in stocking stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) for 7 cm. End with a purl row.It should measure about 10 cm.

Decrease for top of hat.

Next row: Knit 2 together along row  - you get 24 stitches

Purl next row.

Next row: Knit 2 together along row - you get 12 stitches.

Purl next row.

Next row: Knit 2 together along row - you get 6 stitches.

Cut wool leaving a long tail for sewing up. Thread end of wool onto a darning needle, then thread remaining stitches off the needle and onto the wool. Pull tight then sew down side of hat. You can make a pom pom for the top as I did or just leave as is. 

 


A great website for free knitting patterns I have found is www.ravelry.com . I'm afraid I can't put a link on this so you'll have to type it into your server.

 

 

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